I still remember inspecting my first ADA compliant house. I was in the attached garage and saw that there was no height difference at the entrance door to the living space. I started filling out my report and noticed the door pulls. I stepped into the house and immediately realized that this was an ADA compliant home. Most municipalities require a 4 inch drop of the attached garage floor, however this standard has been removed in many municipalities. The reason for the 4 inch drop is gas vapors will hover in this area and not enter the house. A self closing fire rated door that is properly sealed at the threshold is required. Also, a slope of the garage floor is standard on most new construction.

There are also some other differences. Smoke detectors should have audible and visual alarms. Normally home inspectors recommend attached decks should be 1 step below the door threshold. However this would not be the case for ADA construction. Throughout the interior of the house, changes in level should be no more than ¼ inch high or ½ inch high if beveled with a slope no greater than 1:2. You should closely check the flashing in this area and the rim joist / sill plate for decay. ADA construction is something that also is relevant to older people. We inspect many homes for older couples, and having a working knowledge of some factors that may make their home safe is a great service we can provide to them. So how can a home inspector properly advise their clients regarding ADA construction, and what are other things to look for (there is quite a bit of material here. It may prove to be a useful checklist):

• Changes in the house that are greater than ½ inch must be ramped with a slope no greater than 1:12
• Accessible doors should have a clear opening of at least 32 inches between the face of the door and the stop, when the door is open 90 degrees
• Door hardware should be operable with one hand and does not require grasping, pinching, or twisting of the wrist
• Operable parts of the door hardware are mounted between 34 inches and 48 inches above the floor
• Doors with closers take no less than 5 seconds to close from an open position of 90 degrees to a position of 12 degrees from the latch
• Interior hinged doors take no more than 5 lbs of pressure to push or pull open
• All secondary doors that provide passage onto exterior areas of the house (decks, patios, balconies, etc.) have a nominal 32-inch clear width
• Controls, outlets, and switches are mounted no lower than 15 inches and no higher than 48 inches above floor and there should be a 30 x 48 clear space in front for easy access
• There is wall reinforcement for a grab bar of at least 6 inches wide by 24 inches long provided centered behind the toilet and at least 6 inches wide by 24 inches long provided adjacent to the toilet. The reinforced area is positioned between 32 inches maximum above floor at the bottom edge and 38 inches minimum above floor at the top edge
• For bathtubs: Grab bars should be positioned between 32 inches maximum above floor at the bottom edge and 38 inches minimum above floor at the top edge and there is 30 x 48 inch clear floor space outside the swing of the door that provides a forward approach to the tub and a minimum of 30 x 48 inches of clear floor space adjacent to the tub
• For stand alone showers: Grab bars should be positioned between 32 inches maximum above floor at the bottom edge and 38 inches minimum above floor at the top edge. In instances where the shower stall is 36 x 36 inches; 30 x 48 inches of required clear floor space is positioned flush with the control wall and 12 inches offset behind the wall opposite the control wall. In instances where the shower stall is 36 x 48 inches; 30 x 48 inches of clear floor space should be positioned parallel with the fixture and flush with the control wall
• The centerline of the toilet should be 18 inches from the adjacent side wall and at least 15 inches from a wall-hung lavatory or vanity
•  There is a minimum of 60 x 56 inches of clear floor space in the bathroom, excluding the toilet
• There is 30 x 48 inches of clear floor space centered on the sink and most appliances to allow for a parallel approach
• Kitchens islands should maintain a 40-inch minimum clearance around all edges
• The sink or cook top has a removable base cabinet that allows for proper knee clearance. This also applies to bathroom vanities
• Electrical outlets and switches are mounted at least 36 inches from any corner to allow for a parallel approach & no higher than 46 inches above floor
• Grates or other openings should have a space no larger than ½ inch
• Wall mounted objects located between 27 and 80 inches above the finished floor  have leading edges that do not protrude more than 4 inches from the wall
• The front approach to the pull side of the door has at least 18 inches of maneuvering clearance beyond the latch side and at least 60 inches of space perpendicular to the door wall

Ramp Requirements

• Any ramp maintains a running slope no greater than 1:12 and a cross slope no greater than 1:48
• The total rise of each ramp run does not exceed 30 inches
• The landings are at least 60 inches long and at least as wide as the ramp
• There is a level landing at the top and bottom of the ramp with a slope no greater than 1:48
• There is a level landing (slope no greater than 2% in all directions) where the ramp changes direction that is at least 60 x 60 inches
• When the ramp has a rise greater than 6 inches, there are continuous handrails on both sides of the ramp
• Handrails do not encroach into the ramp width or into the clear space at landings
• The top of the handrail gripping surface is located between 34 and 38 inches above the ramp surface
• Ramp handrails extend at least 12 inches beyond the run of the ramp
• All handrail extensions are parallel with the level landing and do not ‘extend’ over the ramp run

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